Etosha central salt pan is desolate in the extreme, but when you look closely you still find tracks either heading out onto it or back from it.

I guess if you live on the fringes of it, at least nothing can sneak up behind you.

In an area the size of Wales there are over 100 waterholes. At most times 90% of them are dried up.
However, when you find one with water, even without any game in sight, they can be beautiful.

Given how little water is around, sooner or later something always turns up.

Then word seems to get around, and everyone seems to want a turn.

On very rare occasions, the place actually gets mobbed!

Even ‘The Uglies’ are allowed water (although they have to wait their turn).

We travelled from Okaukeuro to Halali, to Namatomi camps over the 5 days we were there. We visited about a dozen waterholes, but this one was so good we sat there from 8.30am to 6pm (in 38 degrees Centigrade). I doubt we could have done it without the fridge on board.

In all the time we were there, maybe 20 other people turned up. Most took a quick picture (ticked the box for ‘Zebra’ or whatever in their ‘I-Spy Safari’ book) and raced off – never knowing what they were missing.

These 2 Cows and a Bull (their tusks removed to deter poachers) turned up mid afternoon for a drink (scattering the small game)…..

…and a quick dust-bath.

I think he must believe he’s ‘on a promise‘ tonight.

Once the dust had settled, a real dust storm arrived and they left.

When it cleared, the Giraffe had their turn for a drink. It’s always amusing to watch them – graceful as they strut along the Veldt, they’re not quite so balletic as they try to drink.

In all, I guess we saw about 600-700 animals.
Remarkable.

Watching animals at a waterhole is magic, but nothing beats the feeling of seeing them on the plains.
There are many about. Mostly Springbok, Kudu, Eland, Oryx, Giraffe, Zebra and Wildebeast, Dik-Dik.
We also saw Ardwolf, but weren’t quick enough with the camera.

Some wildlife you have to look really hard to see (we ‘spotted’ this hyena hiding in the bush)…

….and we originally spotted this guy as a speck on the tree line in the distance.
Then, he spotted us…!

We turned off the engine, and over about a 30 minute period he got closer and closer, eventually walking right past the car. The main thing going through my mind was whether the Landy would be able to out-run it. I doubt it.

A great day. Only one day left in the park and can’t believe we’ve been so fortunate – especially compared to some people we spoke to who seem to have just raced around and seen little.
At night the rains came – the first since we arrived. A welcome thunderstorm to take some of the heat out of the day, but likely to make game spotting tougher as there will be water on the Veldt and less need for animals to risk using the waterholes.

Next….. Lions