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Lunch?

Posted on November 24, 2013 by Scott CableNovember 24, 2013

Namatomi Camp is in the Far East of Etosha Park.
An old German Fort, converted into a few lodges, a restaurant (where we had an excellent treat – a 4-course buffet for $12 each) and a campsite for about 30 vehicles.
Since we were spending our last night there, and had to leave the park by 10am the next day, we decided to take the whole day getting there from Halali Camp (where the evening waterhole was attractive, but quiet).
It’s only 110km between the two and the tracks are poor in places, so we thought it would take us 3 hours or so anyway.
There’s only one track cars can take onto the pan….but even there animal tracks still lead out to the horizon.

Away from the pan there’s plenty to see…

We only caught a glimpse of this Secretary bird and the picture doesn’t do it justice – it has the largest wingspan of any flying bird (up to 2.5m)! When it took off it was like watching a glider.

Travelling between two waterholes (which turned out to be dry) we came across a muddy puddle caused by the rains last night.
We really just stopped for a casual look, but then spotted some activity in the grass.

An ideal spot for them – a slightly elevated position, water and shade from the grass.
There were 6 lions in the grass and gradually each of them came down to the water to drink and laze in the heat of the day (almost noon by this time).
There are actually 5 females and 1 young male in this picture (although you won’t spot 2 of them).
Click the picture to enlarge…

We parked the car only 30m from the waterhole and watched them for almost 3 hours as the chilled out.

Most of the time they were just conserving energy.
And waiting.
Like us.

At one point a herd of Zebra came within about 300m of the water and the lionesses got wind of them…

But the Zebra also seemed to get wind of the lions (they approached from slightly downwind) and scattered back the way they had come.
No drink for them this afternoon.

The male (naturally) didn’t bother to stir himself and just relaxed through all the surrounding tension.

By about 3.30pm we were getting a bit restless (Land Rover seats are not built for comfort – mind you, I’m not sure what they are built for) when we noticed the lions splitting up and moving away from the water into the grass.

Most of them were no more than 15-20 metres from our car.

Something’s up.
Two lionesses sat one side of the water.
The other 4 went into the long grass.
Within 15 minutes a small herd of Springbok approached the waterhole (from upwind) – very cautiously.
Spot the 2 lions in the grass top right of the water in the grass in this picture…

After 10 minutes about 30 Springbok were around the water, looking for a drink.

The lions never moved…

Then suddenly, they sprang…

…through the water.

The Springbok scattered.

Still not a sound made (other than frantic splashing).

We could hardly keep up with the action with the camera.
It’s like American football – where’s the quarterback…who’s got the ball?

The quarterback emerged from the pond, splashed with mud.

She’d done her job – driven the Bok through the long grass.
Where the other’s had been concealed.
A kill.

Lions apparently kill quickly – either going for the throat or, with small prey like Springbok, putting the animal’s whole head in their mouth and suffocating it.

Then they share.

It’s a bloody business, and they obviously decide amongst themselves who gets the choicest cuts.

I guess someone always goes home with the trophy (I’m not sure how much eating there is on it though)?

Four hours of waiting.
Seven minutes of frenzy.
All within 30m of the car.

Covered in blood….

…Lunch is over…

…What’s next (one Springbok doesn’t go far between 6)…

For five hours we sat in the heat of the car.
Often wondering if we should move on: then wondering why would we bother, something always turns up.
Some other cars arrived at various times during the day – took a picture of the lion – ticked the box in their ‘I-spy Safari’ book – raced away to try and find something else.
Missed it all.
I wouldn’t have missed a second of it.

Waterholes

Posted on November 20, 2013 by Scott CableDecember 13, 2013

Etosha central salt pan is desolate in the extreme, but when you look closely you still find tracks either heading out onto it or back from it.

I guess if you live on the fringes of it, at least nothing can sneak up behind you.

In an area the size of Wales there are over 100 waterholes. At most times 90% of them are dried up.
However, when you find one with water, even without any game in sight, they can be beautiful.

Given how little water is around, sooner or later something always turns up.

Then word seems to get around, and everyone seems to want a turn.

On very rare occasions, the place actually gets mobbed!

Even ‘The Uglies’ are allowed water (although they have to wait their turn).

We travelled from Okaukeuro to Halali, to Namatomi camps over the 5 days we were there. We visited about a dozen waterholes, but this one was so good we sat there from 8.30am to 6pm (in 38 degrees Centigrade). I doubt we could have done it without the fridge on board.

In all the time we were there, maybe 20 other people turned up. Most took a quick picture (ticked the box for ‘Zebra’ or whatever in their ‘I-Spy Safari’ book) and raced off – never knowing what they were missing.

These 2 Cows and a Bull (their tusks removed to deter poachers) turned up mid afternoon for a drink (scattering the small game)…..

…and a quick dust-bath.

I think he must believe he’s ‘on a promise‘ tonight.

Once the dust had settled, a real dust storm arrived and they left.

When it cleared, the Giraffe had their turn for a drink. It’s always amusing to watch them – graceful as they strut along the Veldt, they’re not quite so balletic as they try to drink.

In all, I guess we saw about 600-700 animals.
Remarkable.

Watching animals at a waterhole is magic, but nothing beats the feeling of seeing them on the plains.
There are many about. Mostly Springbok, Kudu, Eland, Oryx, Giraffe, Zebra and Wildebeast, Dik-Dik.
We also saw Ardwolf, but weren’t quick enough with the camera.

Some wildlife you have to look really hard to see (we ‘spotted’ this hyena hiding in the bush)…

….and we originally spotted this guy as a speck on the tree line in the distance.
Then, he spotted us…!

We turned off the engine, and over about a 30 minute period he got closer and closer, eventually walking right past the car. The main thing going through my mind was whether the Landy would be able to out-run it. I doubt it.

A great day. Only one day left in the park and can’t believe we’ve been so fortunate – especially compared to some people we spoke to who seem to have just raced around and seen little.
At night the rains came – the first since we arrived. A welcome thunderstorm to take some of the heat out of the day, but likely to make game spotting tougher as there will be water on the Veldt and less need for animals to risk using the waterholes.

Next….. Lions

Etosha

Posted on November 18, 2013 by Scott CableNovember 18, 2013

Etosha at last.
23,000km2 of desert National Park (about the size of Scotland). The salt pan itself is 4,700km2.
Everywhere in Namibia is remote – this place even more so than most.

The country is the size of the UK and France combined, with a population of 2.6m.
It hasn’t rained here in the north for about 8 months. The heat is intense. Dust fills the car every day.
It makes you wonder how any animals survive out here – given that there are currently only a handful of waterholes that aren’t dry.

Amazingly, Ostrich seem to drink briefly and then head back out onto the pan itself.

Not everything makes it. And this Black-backed Jackal realises that shade is shade – wherever you find it.

He’s a beautiful animal though.

There are many Wildebeest on the plains, though it’s not really possible to photo them en-mass when everything is so flat.

Fortunately for us, one of the best waterholes is 20 metres from our campsite at Okaukuejo.
The camps are gated for security (from animals, not people) and you must be back in camp by sunset or you have to leave the park completely.
We arrived back from 50km away on the plains with about 10 minutes to spare and took a cold bottle of wine and our camp chairs down to the waterhole.
At that time of day, everybody needs a drink.

The animals arrived in a steady stream…..

…..until the place started getting a bit crowded…..

As the dusk fell, the pecking order at the water’s edge changed…..

….. until the big guys arrived…..

There were 3 White Rhino drinking around the pool in the shot below but one dominated it and claimed the middle for himself.

Once they’d had their fill, they left it to the Giraffe.

By 10.45 pm, we’d forgotten about dinner completely and thought it was just the Giraffe, an Eagle-Owl and us left (this bad-boy had a 1.5m wingspan).

We were wrong. In the gloom we watched 5 lions stalk one of the Giraffe – 2 of them herding it towards the other 3.
Amazingly somehow it evaded them and escaped at pace – making the most of it’s 5 metre stride – while the other 7 took off in the opposite direction.
No photos since it was too dark, but 15 minutes of the hairs standing up on the back of my neck that I will never forget.

Still Going North

Posted on November 14, 2013 by Scott CableNovember 14, 2013

We left Dustenbrook Farm regretfully, A great place to stop over for a couple of days.
This is Justine – don’t let the broom fool you, she does everything round here (there are plenty of staff and they’re all busy, but Justine seems to do everything: with a great smile).

Justine, where can we check in for the camping?
“I’ll be round to reception for you right away”
Justine, is the bar open?
“I’ll be up in a couple of minutes to open up”
Justine, who can we book the Leopard Drive with?
“That will be me. I’ll organise it for you”
Justine, we can’t be bothered to cook tonight is food served here?
“Yes, I’ll book you in for dinner – everyone eats with the farm owners and their family. It’s pot luck – whatever the chef comes up with. There’s two choices – Take it, or leave it.”
The Lapa restaurant…

What a great dinner.
Chilled cucumber soup, Oryx steaks and 5 types of vegetables, apple dumpling / fritters and plenty of wine.
Dinner for 20 people. £8 each.
Next morning,
Justine, that chilled soup was fantastic. Can you see if the cook will give me the recipe – the owners said it’s a secret?
“Actually, I’m the cook. Sure…..
Buttermilk,
Mayonaise,
A cup of milk
Salt & white pepper,
Splash of vinegar,
Little sugar
Dill
Lots of grated cucumber”.
Justine was born on the farm and has lived there all her life. She only ever left to go to school.
What a star!
After Dustenbrook, we’d planned a stopover halfway to Etosha National Park but the weather has been blistering hot and we felt that rather than 2 medium length hops, we’d be better with one long day then a rest day at a campsite just outside the gates.
I’m glad we did.
We stayed at a co-operative campsite – Etosha Safari Camp.
A gem, friendly staff (nothing new there I guess from what we’ve experienced so far in Namibia), lots of large, lush grassy camping pitches (in the middle of a desert area!) and a real quirky bar / social area.

In the garden, the furniture is made out of either car tyres or baths cut in half and welded onto wheelbarrow frames.

Late evening, once the ‘Overland Safari Bus Tour’ groups had gone to bed, the 3-man vocal harmony guitarists let their hair down, really started stamping their feet, got all the staff joining in and we had 30 minutes of pure African, joyful rhythm. Waitresses, bar staff, security guards, reception staff, cooks, etc. Purely for personal pleasure – they know how to let their hair down, and not a drink in sight.
Unfortunately no photos either – too dark. But we have got a very dark video on the phone. Just the sounds and rhythms alone makes me smile.

We wanted an early night as we’ve an early start coming up for the Park – that didn’t happen though.
Next, Etosha for 4-5 days.
Really excited.

Leopard

Posted on November 11, 2013 by Scott CableNovember 11, 2013

We’ve been having problems with the electrics in the car so decided to head straight up the B1 to Windhoek (Capital of Namibia) to see if we can get someone to help. Losing the fridge etc would be a pain in the backside, but losing the water pump / filter & tyre compressor would be more of an issue. Arriving late in the afternoon after about 450km, exhausted, we came across Andre who runs LA Sport (a 4×4 specialist). He used to manage BMW Namibia but now has this workshop.
Although 99% of what he works on is Toyota or Nissan, he is a Land Rover nut and wanted to do everything he could to help. He sent us off to a local campsite and told us to come back at 7.30 the next morning, when he’d get his guys to fit us in before his regular jobs.
What a star.
We arrived at 7.30 and by noon they’d replaced the solenoid, rewired all the secondary electrics and tidied up all the connections. Four hours labour (a few of Andre’s great stories about off-roading in Namibia – particularly one about a vicious donkey that chased him for 3 miles after he got a puncture) and parts – all for around $200.
After that (and after a couple of his stories) we went and bought a Satellite Phone – about half what it would cost in the UK. Calls are too expensive to make in anything other than an emergency, but it means we can call from anywhere we can see the sky!
Peace of mind at least.
Late in the afternoon, by that time we didn’t want to drive far so found camping at Durstenbrook Guest Farm – a private estate about 45km N West of Windhoek.
What a gem.

A massive estate, with a small stream that runs through the heart of it, and right through the campsite.
Being so dry for the last couple of years here, it attracts it’s share of wildlife…….
(All these shots taken from my camp-chair at the site)

When you’re travelling – particularly in ridiculously hot climates – personal hygiene is everything.

“What seems to be the problem sir…..?”

“Ah, I think I see the issue…”

“I’ve nearly got it….”

“That should do you for a week or two…”

Inspired, Helene decided on a session of personal grooming….

The next morning, we’d heard that they had leopard on the farm and set up a drive for the afternoon.

What an animal.

Click on the pics to see them in better detail.

You don’t get out of the car with these guys.

The Cheetahs kill small animals because they want fresh meat every time.
These guys kill large animals because they want to eat, then drag it into a tree where they will protect the kill and feed on it for days.

This guy is about 8 years old and climbed the tree trunk 12 feet before I could even get a picture.

Stunning animal, and a privilege to be so close to it.

It radiates muscle, quite power, and real grace.

Wow.

What a day.
Highlight of the trip so far.
Next, further north towards Etosha National Park.

A bit of a heart-stopper.

Posted on November 9, 2013 by Scott CableNovember 10, 2013

After Fish River Canyon….

….we stayed at the Canon Roadhouse.

In the middle of nowhere, on the dusty sand & gravel trail west towards Keetmanshoop (pronounced Keet-man’s-verp) we found a campsite / motel stuffed with vintage cars in both the garden and the restaurant.

Out here it’s so dry that although things rust, they don’t seem to rot.

We were only there for an overnight stop, but were exhausted and used the restaurant.
I had my first Oryx steak (see beast in last post, silhouetted against the sky).

Delicious.
The next day, more dust, sand and gravel for about 300km.
We arrived at the Kokerboom (Quiver Tree) Rest Camp.
When most people out here arrive at a campsite they pull up in a cloud of dust in their gleaming Toyotas and Nissan 4x4s, switch off their aircon and emerge refreshed.
When we pull up in the Land Rover we open the doors to let the dust OUT!
Quiver Trees (you’ll see from the pictures how they got their name) usually grow singly. Here there are a hundred or more. They grow to about 8 metres tall and the ones with a diameter of more than 1 metre are more than 300 years old.
Although a dusty campsite, it’s in a magnificent setting called the Giant’s Playground – over 40 square miles of absurdly balanced and weathered rocks.

The view from the penthouse….

However, the highlight of the stay was the adjacent Cheetah reservation. About 300 acres of heavy security fencing where 4 cheetahs live. They have to be kept behind fences or in Game Parks otherwise the farmers kill them – they are ruthless livestock killers – only a few months back 2 escaped and killed 140 sheep in 2 days.
Beautiful animals.

Bertus (native Afrikaan) manages the sanctuary and we had arrived at feeding time (since they can only hunt the rabbit, dik-dik and small game in the reserve).
He walked into the enclosure and after he’d got about 15 metres, told us to follow him – quietly.

A bit apprehensive, we followed (particularly after he reassured us that Cheetah won’t attack from the front and only like stalked prey.
He also said not to worry – “if they charge, just stand still, don’t run, and I’ll get in front of you and take the hit”.
Right!
Anyway, we went in and although they were a bit boisterous a couple of times we managed to get within about 10 feet of them. (Helene says that’s rubbish, I was only about six feet away and didn’t realise how close I was when taking these pictures – I was so engrossed).
All these shots were taken standing only a few feet away from them.

At one point the female walked between us slowly, walked about 10 feet past us. then accelerated (like nothing I’ve seen) for about 40 feet and threw herself at a fence behind which she’d seen a goat!
That makes your heart pound a bit.

I guess I was a bit close sometimes – this one is not in focus as she made me jump when she got a bit arsey!

Next – Keetmanshoop to Windhoek, north along the B1.

Namibia, at last.

Posted on November 7, 2013 by Scott CableNovember 7, 2013

Wow, The Cape was lovely but I’d never have thought Namibia could out-do it.
We travelled to Vioolsdrift, then crossed into Namibia at Noerdower (spelling varies)

200km of dusty, gravel roads without another car in site. Our car filled with dust within an hour – at one point Helene made me stop and check everything as it looked like we were filling with smoke!
Wonderful landscape. Desert, but stunning (and blistering hot).

Only the occasional village on the road (!) to Fish River Canyon.
This one has a permenant population of 3,000 (plus an ATM / Bank and a Spar supermarket) and expands to 15,000 when they harvest the vinyards (the Orange River is like the Nile – one of very few in the country that flows all year and is used to irrigate a strip about a mile wide. Everything else is dust / sand / granite / pumice.

We drove for many miles, alone and wondering where the canyon was that we’d heard about.
“I’m sure it’s round here somewhere….”

Maybe we’re not looking the right way….

Good Lord. The Americans think their Canyon is ‘Grand’. This ain’t too shabby!

Driving north via Ais Ais Hot Springs and Hobas, we saw few signs of life (let alone people) and almost shook the car to pieces on the corrugated gravel / sand tracks. However, every now and again we were rewarded with an occasional glimpse of some of the wonderful wildlife in this part of the world.

We managed to get quick shots of the ostrich, zebra and oryx – but weren’t quick enough for the baboons.
We stopped into a lodge on the river for a quick drink, but couldn’t afford to stay.
Beautiful though.

We stayed a couple of Km up the road at Amanzi Trails campsite ($15) and couldn’t have asked for a better spot.
View from the penthouse the following morning…..

Bargain prices at the bar too (Namibian dollers N$ = 15 to the British pound)!

Next instalment…… The Giant’s Playground and walking with Cheetahs.

Beyond Cape Town

Posted on November 4, 2013 by Scott CableNovember 5, 2013

28th November. The car’s out, and we’re on the road.
Duncan, from Africa Overland (yellow jacket) did a great job of shipping and Customs clearance with his colleague Jason.

We camped overnight at his new farm – for which he has ambitious development plans.
But it’s time to get out into the real world and away from Cities.
Heading north from Cape Town to Ceres we went over Mitchell’s Pass into one of the Western Cape wine regions. Wonderful mountain ranges, dramatic weather (that’s British for heavy rain) but glorious views when it cleared. Good roads, baboons & Fish Eagles at the roadside. No wonder they call it God’s Country round here.

From Ceres we took the remote gravel track north through the Cederberg Wilderness area and Tankwa Karoo National Park.
A remote, hot, dusty, dramatic change in scenery for 200km.

In 6 hours we saw 2 other vehicles and one of them was at the side of the track with a double puncture. He changed one wheel and we managed to get air into the second from our compressor, but who knows how lang that was going to last him. He was going the opposite direction and didn’t want any further help or a lift, so headed off merrily.

After a long day we made it to Groenrivier Farm in Niewoudtville and camped. The farm is run by Elsa and her husband and they’ve been there for 3 generations. A lovely pitch (with it’s own private shower block!) for only 160 Rand (£11, $16). The wagon was brought in by her family when they arrived and is one of her restoration projects.

We settled for a quick dinner on the Brai (BBQ to you and me), a steak from the local shop – £3 – enough for a family of 4.
We finished it.
For what we are about to receive…

No light pollution at all and the stars were amazing (although strange to us as we’re not used to the Southern Hemisphere constellations yet). The Milky Way stood out, but the rest of the major stars were hard to pick out as the sky was littered with them in all directions – even on the horizon.

The next morning, this was the view from the penthouse. Beautiful, peaceful spot.

Slightly disappointed to have to move on (but we have bookings in Etosha National Park in Namibia in 10 days and it’s a long drag to get there).
3rd November’s highlight was the Vanrhyns Pass.
Outstanding. The track we traveled the previous day was the other side of the mountains.

50 – 60 km later the road was pretty much a tar road (the N7) all the way north to Springbok, about 120km south of the Namibian border.
Despite being a main road, still no more than 4-5 vehicles per hour for 340km.
Often long straight stretches, with frequent roadworks & contra-flows.

In the UK they would drive you nuts. Here, they are an opportunity to switch the engine off, relax, absorb the superb desert scenery – maybe even make a cup of tea.

The Table is set

Posted on October 29, 2013 by Scott CableOctober 29, 2013

I didn’t think there would be any similarities between London and Cape Town but, even having been here only 48 hours, there is one that’s obvious.
Sometimes you can get 4 seasons in one day.
A gloomy spring morning….

…..can produce beautiful blue skies by afternoon and then cloud that comes out of nowhere. It seems to sneak up on the back of Table Mountain, and grab it by the shoulder like a policeman feeling Dell-Boy’s collar.

One of the best ways to get to know any city is to buy a ticket for the ‘Hop-on, Hop-off’ tour bus. The tour round Cape Town and the surrounding coastal districts is great, a bargain, and something everyone should do.
Twice today we got on it and headed for the cable-car station to get to the top of Table Mountain.
Twice ‘The Table’ was set and ready for us.
Twice, before we got there, ‘The Tablecloth‘ (what they call the beautiful cloud cover that builds up from the eastern elevation) beat us to it, engulfed the cable-car & top of the mountain within 20 minutes and meant that we couldn’t get up there.

So we contented ourselves with walking around the historic Victoria & Alfred waterfront – not that that was any hardship. Fascinating buildings…..

…..beautiful yachts (the Round The World Clipper Race is in town)……

…… and excellent bars & restaurants.
Cape Town, a great town.
But, we’re only here for another day or so (hopefully). The container ship got to port yesterday and we have an appointment the day after tomorrow with South African Customs in order to get the car released.
In the meantime rain is forecast for the next couple of days.
My mum always said ‘…keep your feet off the table…’. It looks unlikely that we’ll get to stand on it until we return from Namibia around mid December.

Southward Bound

Posted on October 25, 2013 by Scott CableOctober 25, 2013

Maybe our infinite changes of plan have been a blessing?
– If we’d managed to get into Egypt: we’d have been caught up in the troubles there.
– If we’d managed to drive through Israel & Jordan to The Sinai Peninsular: we’d have been turned back, as 4x4s were banned from entering due to hijackings.
– If we’d shipped from Turkey: the gearbox failure would probably have happened in either the Western Desert of Egypt or the Namib Naukluft desert of Namibia.
– If we hadn’t got back to the UK temporarily: we wouldn’t have had the opportunity to catch up with friends and family for a few weeks – in particular Gwyneth & Cliff from California who I haven’t seen for an embarrassingly long time.
It really has been great to be home for a while.
But, it’s time to move on.
Assuming it’s in one piece, the car is currently on the Maersk Gateshead, just off the coast of Congo / Angola.

We fly to Cape Town on Sunday night, arriving the same day as the boat theoretically docks.
Bargain flights in the end – I remembered that I still had a bunch of Virgin air-miles left from the million+ accumulated over my years in a suit. Better still, on 28th October (the day we fly from Heathrow) Virgin launch their new service direct to Cape Town. We’re on it.
At last something seems to be going our way.
It should take 2-4 days to get the car out of Customs, then we’re off.
We’ve blocked out a rough route taking us up to Northern Namibia as quickly as possible, in order to try and get to some of the more remote areas of Kaokaland and Damaraland before the rains come. Then we’ll tour Namibia for a month or so, returning to South Africa, the Garden Route and The Drakensburg mountains for 6-8 weeks while the rains pass (hopefully) in Botswana, Zimbabwe and Zambia.

Sad to be leaving friends and family (particularly Charlie)…..but grateful for the unexpected opportunity to spend time with them and excited to be finally en-route to Africa.