The desert roads south of Sossusvlei are almost as dramatic as the dunes themselves.

For about 200km there are desert landscapes on one side of the track and mountain ranges on the other.

I can’t think of anywhere else I’ve been where this has been so evident, or so dramatic a contrast.

When we were in the north (particularly Damaraland) the gravel roads were like roller-coasters: twisting, uneven, undulating and rocky. Our record one day was 34 river-bed crossings (thankfully all dry) but you never knew what was going to be round the next hairpin bend.

Here you can see where the road goes for miles and miles.

Theoretically this gives plenty of warning if there’s another vehicle on the track (a large plume of dust advancing on you like Wylie Coyote usually).

We saw another car today.
Just thought I’d mention it – it doesn’t happen often.
This one (another ‘Tonka Toy’: shiny white pickup, huge wheels, aircon, rooftent – all the toys) sailed past us with a friendly wave; left us in a cloud of dust; kicked up a stone.
Inevitably, the stone hit the window like a bullet and shattered the top so that it split it from top to bottom.

Also, the heat is so fierce it actually deleted 8Gb of music off of the memory stick we have stuck into the car stereo.
Oh well…one more Toll Road to mark on the map.

We headed south and camped a couple of nights at the Bethanie Guest House (the oldest Colonial building and Guest House in Namibia).

Found out that Nelson Mandella had died the day before – but didn’t find out much more as the owners were more intent on watching S African dubbed soap-operas than the news.
A nice enough place, but we moved on after 2 nights, heading north 400km in a big loop via Keetmanshoop to the Koha Guesthouse just outside Mariental.

A great place, and we ended up camping for 6 days.
Did nothing but unwind and chat to our hosts Desme & Jannie (and their pal Willem).

They have a lovely 6-hectare plot which they are in the process of buying and developing further – hopefully starting early in the New Year.

In the meantime, Desme runs the admin for the chalets and camping (while she sets up her wedding venue business)…

…and Jannie (a true Jack-of-all-Trades: Minister, auto-electrician, tour-guide, plant operator) helps the local farmers get their crops in.

What a great place to unwind for a few days – good value, a warm welcome, lovely grassy camping and great company.
Thoroughly recommended and we were sorry to have to leave.
But…the desert calls.
We’re now heading east to the Namibia / Botswana / S Africa border, driving along the dry Auob river-course for about 250km and will enter the Kalahari tomorrow at Mata Mata for 3-4 days in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park.
Can’t wait.